This twisted bottle was scaled to 60% but I think it was meant to be printed only at full scale because the threads and the the walls became too thin. Before you scale a model down, you need to consider the width of the walls. The print finished and works okay although the threads didn't run smoothly. You will notice the 2-tone color. This is not a flaw but due to the white filament that was about to run out so I just spliced the beige filament. I panicked a little since I didn't know if the splice was going to hold. Luckily, it didn't snag into anything and I finished the print. :) I will make a separate post on how to splice the filament.
Here's the cuddling owls scaled down. I forgot how big the original was but this is about an inch tall. This was printed hollow with 0.3mm layer height which is not recommended for my nozzle. I found out lately that for best results, you should print with a layer height that is about 80% of your nozzle diameter. Maybe that's why it had some separation on the owl's head. There's no question that you can get better prints on a smaller nozzle diameter but overall, I prefer a slightly bigger one to make prints faster. By that I mean less slower :).
This is the stretchy bracelet. The one at the bottom was printed with 0.3mm diameter while the white one was printed recently when I was experimenting with resistors and after I drilled my nozzle to make it bigger (I will post the result of this experiment). You will notice the gaps between layers and they were caused by bubbles which I have not totally figured out yet. The nozzle will sometimes make this popping sound and will cause the extrusion to skip. Some people suggests that the popping sound is caused by trapped air in the filament during production. If that's the case, I don't have a way to prevent it. When my new resistor and heater cartridge arrives, I will experiment with a higher temperature and see if the popping will disappear.
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